(photo: Michael Steck downclimbing with a belay line to scout this tall drop.)
One skill that gets overlooked as a way to skip unnecessary ropework, and thus prevent unnecessary rope grooves in the American Southwest is: Downclimbing
This is especially relevant in areas where bolting is not prevalent, and where canyons have lots of small 5'-20' (or more) drops that are downclimbiable thanks to the abrasive and narrow canyon walls.
SEQUENCED DOWNCLIMBING
Canyoneering instruction has been very succinct and effective on how to safely negotiate downclimbing:
Belay
Sequence
Capture/spot
Self learners seem to have a harder time figuring this out, too afraid to do it, doing it unprotected (no bleays, no captures, no spotting or incorrect captures that risk injury) resulting in establishing lots of bad anchors to negotiate these drops.
THE SPECIFICS:
Bealy:
Sending someone first down to evaluate the drop. Small drops are better evaluated from the bottom than from the top. Do it correctly. You are not a meat anchor, you are a belayer. Learn to brace yourself, learn the hip-belay option when no features are available for foot-bracing, learn proper communication.
On Belay > Belay in on > Slack / Tension
Sequence:
Sequence you team. Tallest and stronger first, lightest and most skilled downclimbers last.
Learn to shuttle backpacks
Capture/Spot
Learn proper partner-capture techniques
Avoid bracing partner form body areas that can cause injuries
Learn different techniques: Passive vs Active captures
WHEN BOLTING COMES INTO PLAY
In some heavily guided commercial areas, where guides have clients that have zero onrope experience, "sequenced downclimbs" becomes a challenge, if not a bad idea. While it is possible to adapt meat-belays to better function in a commercial guided environment, this elevates the technical know-how of pro guides, that most of the time is just not there. For this reason, some of these routes have bolts at the top of these simple drops. They are used to belay clients or lower kids, and the guide downclimbs the drop.
PREVIOUS RELATED POSTS IN: Instructional Canyoneering:
Understanding Partner Captures